If you’re looking to experience the real Ecuador — where history, tradition, and hospitality are woven together in the shadow of the Andes — Hacienda Zuleta is the place to go. This family-owned, 17th-century estate offers an unforgettable blend of authenticity and comfort, where you can explore working farmland, learn about local culture, and unwind by a crackling fire at the end of the day.
Located about a two-hour drive north of Quito, a stay at Hacienda Zuleta pairs perfectly with time in capital city and/or the Mashpi Lodge, or it could even be a good way to unwind after a busy Galapagos cruise if you are flying home from Quito. This authentic hacienda stay rounds out an Ecuador itinerary with a taste of highland life — from rolling green hills and Andean condors to hand-embroidered textiles and homemade cheese.
About Hacienda Zuleta
Located in the northern highlands of Ecuador, a stay at Hacienda Zuleta feels like stepping back in time. The white-washed walls and terracotta roof of the hacienda wrap around a large central courtyard, where the townspeople gather for festivals and celebrations.
Located in the heart of Ecuador’s Avenue of Volcanoes, Hacienda Zuleta offers breathtaking views of misty mountains and lush valleys. Stepping out of the car on arrival, you feel the hush that has settled over the property, interrupted only by the lowing of cows in the fields. It is a place to relax and connect with the locals, the setting inviting to afternoon naps, drinks by a crackling fire, and days spent in quiet exploration.
Dating back to the 17th Century, Zuleta is one of Ecuador’s oldest working estates. It has been home to two former presidents and remains under the stewardship of their descendants today. The family has transformed the hacienda into both a boutique hotel and a sustainable farm, maintaining its traditions while welcoming guests from around the world.
Each evening, one of the family members joins guests for happy hour by the fire, sharing stories about Ecuador’s history, culture, and the family’s ongoing conservation work. These casual gatherings — with wine and conversation flowing freely — are a highlight of any stay, offering rare insight into Ecuadorian life.
Just beyond the gates lies the village of Zuleta, known for its exquisite hand-embroidered textiles. You can stroll to the small handicraft market (hosted on Sundays) or stop by an artisan’s workshop to see the intricate embroidery — often floral or geometric designs — that has made this community famous.
Hacienda Zuleta Review
The goal at Hacienda Zuleta is to make you feel like part of the family. This includes staying in the rooms that the family grew up in, dining around an antique dining table (often in your private dining room), eating from the gardens planted by Gala Plaza Lasso’s wife, interacting with staff (primarily in Spanish) and hearing stories of the past.
The rooms have remained largely untouched from the time it was a family home and there are many spaces to enjoy that make you feel at home, from the living room offering coffee, tea, water and an honor bar with cozy spot to curl up in front of the fireplace, to the two-story library lined with books and photos of the family with its famous friends.
Accommodations
The hacienda’s guest rooms are spread around a central courtyard, making it feel private and quiet, especially when the hacienda is not at full capacity. Each room is unique, decorated with antique furnishings, colorful Andean textiles, and family heirlooms that give the space a warm, lived-in feel.
As evening falls, the temperature drops — even in the summer — and staff will light a fireplace in your room (if desired), leaving the scent of woodsmoke and the soft crackle of flames. A hot water bottle tucked into your bed ensures you’ll stay cozy as the mountain chill settles in.
My bathroom was also quite large, with both a soaking tub and a walk-in shower. There are thoughtful touches throughout your stay, from chocolate on your pillow to custom-branded socks to keep your toes warm at night, to indulgent bathroom amenities.
Food at Hacienda Zuleta
At Hacienda Zuleta, meals are an event to be savored. Everything is made from scratch using ingredients grown or produced on the property — from their famous cheeses to the herbs and vegetables harvested from the organic garden.
Each evening begins with wine and cheese by the fire, featuring a selection of Zuleta’s own artisanal cheeses. Guests pour their drinks from the honor bar, jotting down what they’ve enjoyed — a charming, old-fashioned ritual that perfectly fits the hacienda’s spirit of trust and hospitality.
Dinner is served privately in one of several small dining rooms, each with its own fireplace and atmosphere. Earlier in the day, you’ll be asked to choose your dinner time and menu — perhaps a creamy Andean potato soup, a hearty quinoa cake, or a delicious corn and cheese soufflé. The kitchen shines in its vegetarian dishes, showcasing local flavors and inventive combinations.
Breakfast is equally memorable: fresh fruit, warm bread, homemade jams, yogurt, and eggs cooked to order. Overall, the food was so healthy and delicious that I wanted to stay longer to enjoy even more. I didn’t have time to take a cooking class during my stay but I’d recommend making room for it if you can.
Activities at Hacienda Zuleta
What makes Hacienda Zuleta truly special is how seamlessly guests are invited to experience life on the estate. The property spans more than 4,000 acres of working farmland, forests, and pastures — and each day offers new ways to explore.
Cheese factory and dairy tours are a wonderful introduction to the hacienda’s operations. You can watch the morning milking, visit the cheese factory, and see firsthand how Zuleta’s renowned cheeses are crafted from fresh, local milk.
For nature lovers, the Condor Huasi Project is a must-visit. The hacienda’s private condor reserve and research center is part of a long-running effort to protect Ecuador’s Andean condors — majestic birds that can live up to 70 years but now number fewer than 150 in the wild. A local naturalist explains how habitat loss, the spread of wild dogs, and persistent myths have put these iconic birds at risk. It is also a great introduction to the other local wildlife — including the Andean (or spectacled) bear.
Hiking trails weave through the property, from gentle paths through farmland to more challenging routes leading to waterfalls and lookout points. During one hike to the condor center, I was warned about the possibility of encountering an Andean bear on the path. While this herbivore wasn’t a danger, half of me hoped to spot one; the other half wasn’t so sure! Along the path you can also visit the ancient “pyramids” or structures made by indigenous people.
Another highlight of my trip was horseback riding through the countryside with a local vaquero. Riding across open fields, and tree-lined lanes, with the mountains rising in the distance, was so different from trail rides I’ve done in other parts of the world.
Guests can also take cooking or embroidery classes, join a guided birdwatching walk, go mountain biking, or simply relax by the fire with a book. There’s plenty of space to explore, but also the rare luxury of stillness.
Hacienda Zuleta is also fabulous for families, with plenty of open space to roam. The property also has a nice playground for children and even a small rock climbing wall.
After a long morning in the saddle, I also enjoyed reserving the spa for my private enjoyment. While you can also book treatments, it was a pleasure just to soak in the warm pool and relax in the sauna.
Not far away, you can also visit the famous Otavalo textile and handicraft market (I had to buy a duffel bag to bring back my purchases!)
Final Thoughts
Hacienda Zuleta is more than a hotel — it’s a living piece of Ecuador’s history, where authenticity and luxury coexist. If you are expecting posh luxury, this isn’t the place to go. But if personalized service, comfort, and connection are your priorities, you will find it in abundance.
Whether you’re sipping wine with the family by the fire, hiking toward the condor reserve, or wandering through the embroidery market in town, you’ll find yourself deeply connected to the spirit of Ecuador.
For those planning a trip that includes Quito and Mashpi Lodge, Hacienda Zuleta adds the perfect complement — a few quiet, soul-filling days in the Andean countryside. Just keep in mind that while your assigned liaison will speak English, most of the staff are primarily Spanish speaking, so you may want to brush up before your visit and use your time at Hacienda Zuleta to practice your conversational skills.
If you’d like help planning your custom Ecuador itinerary — including transportation, hotels, and exclusive experiences — I can help design a trip that includes the best of all three.
Do you need help planning your trip? If you are feeling overwhelmed and don’t have the time or resources to wade through tons of information and question your decisions, I help clients plan a custom itinerary, tailored to your interests and travel style. Learn more about my Travel Advisor and trip planning services.
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Tamara Gruber is an award-winning travel writer and the founder of Your Time to Fly. With more than a decade of professional writing experience across two travel publications and hundreds of destination guides, she specializes in crafting practical, detailed itineraries that help travelers explore the world with confidence. Her work reflects years of on-the-ground research across the globe. Tamara is a member of SATW and serves on the Board of Directors of the Family Travel Association.
