If you have been entranced by Tuscany’s rolling hills dotted with vineyards, medieval hilltop towns, and incredible food scene, let me introduce you to Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula. Istria offers a perfect blend of Mediterranean charm and Central European culture, with a dash of luxury and adventure thrown in. If you love Tuscany or Piedmont, you need to plan a trip to Istria.
This heart-shaped peninsula in northern Croatia has been quietly making waves in the culinary world, thanks to its acclaimed wines, prized truffles, and fresh seafood. But what really sets Istria apart is how it combines these gastronomic delights with stunning coastlines, preserved Roman architecture, and charming hilltop towns that feel frozen in time.
In this four-day itinerary, I’ll show you how to experience the best of Istria, from wine tasting at elegant estates to exploring ancient Roman ruins and medieval villages. Whether you’re a food lover, history buff, or simply seeking a romantic getaway, Istria offers an enchanting escape that rivals its more famous Italian neighbor. Plus, you can escape the crowds of Dubrovnik and Hvar.
4 Days in Istria Itinerary
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Day 1: Arrival and Wine Country Relaxation
Start your Istrian adventure by settling into one of the region’s wine estates. While you can base yourself in larger towns like Rovinj or Pula, I recommend splurging on a wine hotel for a truly memorable experience. Properties like the Meneghetti Wine Hotel offer the perfect blend of rustic elegance and modern luxury, with amenities like pools, a beach club, a spa, tennis courts, bike rentals, a winery, and on-site restaurants.
We stayed for four nights in a one-bedroom residence and absolutely loved everything about our stay. The suite was massive with our own private patio and backyard (some of the residences even have pools.) The food was amazing and there is so much to do on property that you want to leave some time to relax and enjoy.
After checking in, spend your afternoon unwinding with a wine tasting at your hotel’s winery (be sure to book in advance). Istrian wines, particularly the local Malvazija (white) and Teran (red), are gaining international recognition. Although Meneghetti actually focuses more on French-style wines, you can still sample local varietals. The Meneghetti also offers olive oil tastings, as Istria produces some of the world’s finest olive oils.
For dinner, enjoy a farm-to-table meal at your hotel’s restaurant, where you can sample local specialties paired with estate wines. This relaxed first day helps you settle into the slower pace of Istrian life while introducing you to the region’s celebrated cuisine.
Day 2: Exploring Charming Rovinj
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Dedicate your second day to exploring Rovinj, arguably Istria’s most picturesque coastal town. This former fishing village, with its pastel-colored houses rising directly from the sea, offers beautiful views and photo opportunities.
You may want to start your exploration in the morning when the streets are quieter., but you only need a couple of hours to explore town so if you want to enjoy more time at the hotel in the morning, go for it! The Old Town is pedestrian-only, so park in one of the lots near the harbor and wear comfortable walking shoes – you’ll be climbing plenty of hills! Wander through the maze of narrow cobblestone streets, stopping at local galleries and boutiques along the way.
Make your way up to the Church of St. Euphemia, the town’s crowning glory. Climb the bell tower for panoramic views of the red-roofed town, the harbor, and the fourteen islands that make up the Rovinj Archipelago.
In the afternoon, take to the water for one of Rovinj’s most memorable experiences – a sunset cruise around the archipelago. Many local operators offer combination sunset and dolphin-watching tours, giving you the chance to spot these playful creatures in their natural habitat while enjoying the stunning coastline from a different perspective. The golden hour light on Rovinj’s colorful facades makes for incredible photos, and if you’re lucky, you might see dolphins swimming alongside your boat as the sun sets.
For dinner, make advance reservations at Puntulina, where you can dine on fresh seafood at tables perched dramatically on the rocks while watching the last rays of sunlight paint the sky. For pre- or post-dinner drinks, visit one of the unique cocktail bars like Mediterraneo or Valentino, built into the rocks along the water’s edge.
Day 3: Ancient Pula and Coastal Exploration
Dedicate today to exploring Pula and its surroundings on the southern tip of the Istrian peninsula. You can park your car at the large car park about a five-minute walk to the Arena. Start your morning at the remarkably preserved Pula Arena, one of the world’s largest surviving Roman amphitheaters. Built in the 1st century AD, this impressive structure once hosted gladiator fights and still serves as a venue for concerts and events today.
After touring the arena, explore Pula’s old town, where you’ll find the Temple of Augustus and the Arch of the Sergii, both testaments to the city’s Roman heritage. For lunch, grab a pizza at Pizzeria Amore near the Temple of Augustus.
In the afternoon, explore the stunning coastline around Pula. Head to Cape Kamenjak, the southernmost point of Istria, where you’ll find dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming. The nearby Brijuni Islands, a national park accessible by boat from Fažana (just north of Pula), offer a combination of natural beauty, ancient Roman ruins, and even dinosaur footprints.
If beaches are your priority, visit the picturesque bay of Valkane or head to Hawaii Beach in Pješčana Uvala, known for its clear waters and pine-fringed shore.
Return to Pula for dinner at one of the city’s excellent seafood restaurants, perhaps timing it to see the amphitheater beautifully lit up at night.
Day 4: Hilltop Towns and Wine Tasting
Start your final day with a visit to Motovun, one of Istria’s most picturesque medieval hilltop towns. Park in the lot at the bottom of the hill and make the 15-minute climb up – trust me, the views of the truffle-rich Motovun Forest and surrounding vineyards are worth it! Walk the city walls for panoramic vistas and explore the charming cobblestone streets.
For lunch, reserve a table at Konoba Mondo, a local favorite that even attracted Anthony Bourdain. Their truffle dishes are exceptional and surprisingly affordable. Before leaving, stock up on truffle products from local shops, but remember that you can’t bring fresh truffles back to the U.S.
After making your way back down the hill, stop in to the nearby Vina Tomaz for a wine tasting. This winery is known for its excellent wines and beautiful new tasting room. Many wineries in this area offer tours or tastings, providing insight into the region’s winemaking traditions.
Later, visit the artistic haven of Grožnjan. This medieval hilltop town has been transformed into an artists’ colony, with numerous galleries and studios housed in ancient stone buildings. The quiet, creative atmosphere makes it the perfect place to pick up unique souvenirs. You can have dinner in town or head back to the hotel for one more meal under the stars.
Getting to Istria
Istria is easily accessible from several airports. Pula Airport (PUY) is right in Istria and receives flights from major European cities during peak season. Alternatively, you can fly into Zagreb, Croatia’s capital (about a 3-hour drive), or even Venice, Italy (about 3 hours, but beware of high one-way car rental fees for cross-border drops).
Tips for Visiting Istria
- Best Time to Visit: May-June or September-October offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds than peak summer months. October is white truffle season if you’re interested in this delicacy. Many of the hotels will close for a time during the winter months.
- Getting Around: Renting a car is essential for exploring Istria. Roads are well-maintained and signage is good, but they are also narrow and rather winding. Climbing up to the hill towns, you may encounter some one lane roads. If you are a nervous driver, it may be better to hire a driver. Also keep in mind that Croatia has a zero tolerance policy for drinking and driving. Make sure to keep some cash for parking lots in towns, although many will accept credit cards.
- Reservations: Book accommodations and popular restaurants (especially those with sunset views) well in advance during high season.
- Currency: Croatia uses the Euro as of 2023. While many places accept cards, keep some cash for smaller establishments and parking. If you want to go shopping, cash is always king and will earn you a good discount in many local stores.
- Language: English is widely spoken in tourist areas, but learning a few Croatian phrases is appreciated.
- Footwear: Pack comfortable walking shoes with good grip – many towns have steep, cobblestone streets. You will also need water shoes if you plan on hitting the beach.
Whether you’re a wine enthusiast, a history buff, or simply seeking a romantic getaway, Istria offers an enchanting blend of experiences that will leave you planning your return visit before you’ve even left.
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Tamara Gruber is an award-winning travel writer and the founder of Your Time to Fly. With more than a decade of professional writing experience across two travel publications and hundreds of destination guides, she specializes in crafting practical, detailed itineraries that help travelers explore the world with confidence. Her work reflects years of on-the-ground research across the globe. Tamara is a member of SATW and serves on the Board of Directors of the Family Travel Association.
